#MACBOOK PRO 2012 SSD UPGRADE TRIM FREE#
I recommend having 1/3 of the drive free on the smaller SSD's (256 GB or smaller) and 1/4 free on drives larger than 512 GB. If you get too small a SSD you run the risk of the drive failing prematurely. Unlike HD's SSD need free space to prevent wearing.
#MACBOOK PRO 2012 SSD UPGRADE TRIM MAC#
Compare that to my Mac Pro which is older, where the same SSD only gets around 250GB/sec.Before you go down this path how much stuff do you have on your HD now? That will have a big bearing on what size of SSD you'll need to get. When I run speed tests on the SSD I put into my Late 2011, I get around 500GB/sec which is very respectable and an undeniable improvement, since spinning hard drives can only get about 80-120GB/sec. When I do About This Mac on my Late 2011 15" MBP, it says Core i7. I think the Core 2 Duos and slow drive buses were earlier than the Late 2011. I did originally run TRIM but that caused a lot of problems with mavericks and in both Yosemite and El Capitan I have not used TRIM (I think Apple blocked it) and the drive runs well. The SSD runs much faster than the native HD. The late 2011 MBPro's had a faster hard drive bus than the early 2011 ones and is a corei7.
It was a serious defect with that model that you need to be aware of unless the previous owner already had it taken care of. This program has been extended to "Decemor four years from its original date of sale, whichever provides longer coverage for you." If you have the symptoms, the laptop will be completely unusable until it is fixed.
Even if the unit is out of warranty, it should be eligible for the MacBook Pro Repair Extension Program for Video Issues.
If you have these symptoms take it to the Apple Store. This may appear as the laptop screen suddenly going blank and unresponsive, especially when taxing the GPU or using an external monitor. Important: If your model has the discrete GPU, keep your eye out for possible hardware instability related to the GPU. They can also sell you an enclosure for the optical drive you removed, so that you can still us it as an external USB disc drive. If you plan to replace the optical drive with a hard drive or SSD, you should use the affordable drive kit made by OWC. It will slot right into where the old drive is. You do not need any new cables, screws, or brackets. Seriously, both the RAM and SSD upgrades are 100% worth it on that machine if it is to be used with Lightroom.īy the way, when you buy the SSD, you only need the bare drive. You can't do the SSD and not the RAM because you are going to need the RAM upgrade anyway. Installing an SSD will take 5 minutes and will move performance much closer to that of a new machine. the original hard drive is the most serious performance bottleneck. You can take it to its maximum 16GB RAM for under $100. It was getting a little sluggish, but RAM and SSD upgrades completely transformed it and now it performs so well I have been able to put off buying a new laptop. It runs Lightroom fine, but the fans will probably come on during heavy processing. I appreciate it is an old laptop and I will have to increase the RAM, but will Lightroom (my main reason for the purchase) run smoothly enough on this? Would swapping the drive for an SSD make much of a difference or would taking the RAM to 8 or 16GB be the biggest bang for my buck. I've ordered a 2011 Macbook Pro 15, i7 2.0GHz, 500GB SATA drive, 4GB RAM. More than 16gb is wasted regardless of CPU but that's just what objective tests show. OSX is kind of a RAM hog so if you can up the RAM to 16 gb you will find that helpful but not world changing compared to 8gb. If you put an SSD in you have to activate Trim via Terminal (one line command, easy to find). I would rather have a large volume 7200 rpm drive in a machine of that vintage but its your money. If not an SSD will run no faster than a mechanical drive. I do not believe Apple supported ACHI back then. There is a tangible speed bump going to Sandy Bridge and later class processors so it would be in your interests to nail down the specs as many sellers are not quite accurate labeling the year of the used Apple machine they are selling. They can run current Adobe products adequately. The quad core parts were two of them basically glued together (they were excellent CPUs for their time). If that is really a late 2011 machine presumably that is a Core 2 duo class processor, whatever Intel was calling them.
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